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Cycle Tour of New Zealand - North Island, 2004 |
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cycling NZ cycle tour my setup books & links other travel | ||||||||||||
S. Island (wks 1-9) - wk 10 - wk 11 - wk 12 - wk 13 - cycling |
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Camped at Waipoura Forest |
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Te Matua Ngahere (Phantom Tree) 2nd largest Kauri Tree in NZ, Waipoura Forest |
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Me next(ish) to a Kauri tree (you can't get too close due to their shallow delicate roots |
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Day 77 - Back Through Auckland, just look for the Sky Tower...
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Gale Force WINDS!! Yesterday the Coromandel was hit with rain and gale force winds.. I really should not have set out today, but the end of the tour was nearing and I was rushing! The only problem was that there were very few bailing out opportunities (ie places to stop and stay), and the fact that I was following the coast didn't help the winds! During the first hour there were these mini showers, which due to the wind, felt like lead bullets hitting my face. During one of these showers, a women stopped ahead of me and offered to put her bike rack (which was dismantled in her boot) and give me a lift (this generosity gave me a lift). At that point I was turning around anyway so declined. Thirty seconds after turning around (for only the first time on my tour so far) it stopped raining and I changed my mind! When I finally arrived at the 'burbs of Auckland the traffic was surpiringly quiet (well it was 7pm!). Here for the first time the Pedallers Paradise guide book failed me with its awfully poor directions into Auckland! I got lost pretty quickly and as I couldnt see the Sky Tower (the tallest building in the southern hemisphere I had no idea where to go! Finally got into Ponsonby at 8.15pm and could taste the adrenalin in my mouth, my eyes were blood shot and I was beginning to shake through hunger! Stayed at the wonderous Verandahs Backpackers Lodge (with the nicest kiwi in NZ as a host, Campbell). $20
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Day 78 - As quickly as I got to Auckland, I left
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Considering I left the biggest city in NZ the road I exited on my only completely tar sealed in the '90s! A cycle route, once found, wonderfully takes you safely out of the city. The rest of the ride was typical NZ country side and huge westerly winds! I'd already decided to make it a short day after yesterday so I packed in at Hellensville. Malao House, $25 for my own room!
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Day 79 - Making up the distance
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After yesterdays 'half-day' I put in some mileage! I'd originally planned to head to the backpackers at Ruawai (18km's further on) bit I'd heard about the Kauri Museum in Matakohe, which meant a camp out and to hit the museum first thing. I thought that the museum would be dedicated to the mysticism and beauty of these magnificent huge native trees that live for hundreds of years, instead it glorified the 'pioneers' that came and chopped them all down to make warship masts, fruit bowls and coffee tables! Matekohe 'Top-10' Holiday Parks was ridiculously expensive at $14, breaking my No 'Top-10' rule (as they are usually more expensive than their independently owned counterparts).
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Day 80 - A night in the forest
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Another good day ending in a huge hill, which just before I hit I got chatting with a farmer who believed his hill was the biggest in NZ (they all do) and had never heard of the DOC campsite, just 26km from his doorstep! The forest was beautiful with bird noises all night (and Israeli campers). Waipoura Forest DOC camp site $7 (or $8 for a cabin!)
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Lord of the Forest, Tane Mahuta (Largest Kauri Tree in NZ) |
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Bike on car Ferry, Rawene - Kohukohu |
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Bike at the most Northerly post box in NZ!! |
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Day 81 - Two huge hills
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The day started with a huge hill and ended with one too passing some trails to the 1st and 2nd largest Kauri trees in NZ. They were very mystical and felt like standing in a scene of a Zelda game. Passed through Opononi, a picturesque coastal town and then took a car ferry to cut out 30kms (and a nasty bit of traffic on SH1). Kaitia is a usual rural NZ town, and I took a day of lazying off to prepare for the next few days..
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Day 82 - A final day of rest
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Day 83 - T'up to the top of the North Island
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Shunning the sensible $35 tour to the cape and back I took off through mostly dull landscape until the last 20-30 kms, the last 21 of which were pretty bumpy gravel. I made it to the lighthouse which marks the most northerly point in NZ (that you are allowed to get to, North Cape is actually the most northerly apparently a 'scientific reserve' but sounds suspiciously government secrety to me!). Wasn't allowed to take the bike to lighthouse for the photo so have a photo of it next to the most northerly post box in NZ (though there isnt a shop to buy stamps!) Just as I got to Cape Reinga the winds changed direction (having blowed North westerly all the way to the cape), to blow southerly... Camped at the nearby DOC site and faced the worst winds I've had in the tent, $6.
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Light House at Cape Reinga |
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Sign Post at Cape Reinga |
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Cape Reinga Coast Line |
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S. Island (wks 1-9) - wk 10 - wk 11 - wk 12 - wk 13 - cycling |
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